Road Cycling Shoes: What to Know Before You Buy
The features of the right road cycling shoes are important and will set you up correctly for churning up the miles on your machine when you go out road bike cycling. Get it right, and you’re one with your bike. Get it wrong, and you will be cursing every crank turn. There are no real hard and fast rules, and in this game you really do get what you pay for, but it’s worth knowing exactly what you are looking at and for when you walk into the cycle shop. This post will give you the run down of the materials and components that go into making cycling shoes so that you don’t feel a complete dolt when you are talking to the sales-person, and help you to spot the right cycle shoe for you.
What are the components, and what do they do?
There are two options of fastenings just like most sports road shoes: Velcro or regular lace ups. There are different schools of thought here. The Velcro means you can change the tightness of the shoe really quick on the road – not sure I would do it actually cycling but it is an option I guess. So if you are prone to your foot swelling a little on long hot rides then it might provide comfort. Lace up cycle shoes give you a bit more flexibility in terms of wrapping around different shaped foots, and providing support where you need it. Try both, see which you prefer. If possible, get on a bike with them on.
It’s important that your shoe will not slide around on your foot when peddling; otherwise you will get blisters, not to mention inefficient power transfer to the cranks. A snug fit will be best, so try an old trick of trying on a half size smaller than your regular shoe.
Cleats are where you attach yourself to the bike, and there are many variations which fit various different systems of pedal. Shimano have there own system, for example. The cleat will wear out! And when it loosens it becomes inefficient, not to mention dangerous. You will have to replace the cleat, which is attached by a screw to the bottom of the rigid sole, and so it’s worth checking price and availability of the system you choose, and that it matches your pedal.
If you didn’t know, you get your foot off of a pedal with an outward flick of the heel and lift off.
The sole is solid yet has a little flexibility through carbon fibre in some of the better quality shoes, such as Diadora cycling shoes, though there are more exotic materials…glass fibre anyone? Unless you get MTB cycle shoes which are designed to be used both on and off the bike, you won’t want to walk around in them without sounding like Fred Astaire. The cleats get in the way! A couple of companies are making road cycle shoes that you can use off the bike, such as the Specialized Sonomas – they have a little more flexibility. Serious racer shoes have less flexibility.
Your shoe has got to be breathable. If it isn’t, then you are going to have an uncomfortable time. Many are made like cycle shirts and wick away the sweat. Of course, you will also get wet feet in the rain! But you can get over-shoes socks which start at about £8.50, and will keep your road cycle shoes looking good. You should also get waterproof socks too though – make sure they are breathable.
Inside, some companies now are producing innersoles which will compensate for the natural way in which we are all built differently! You know already that a shift in your post height, bar height, and distance you sit from a bar has a drastic affect on your physiology, and the right fit means you will either experience agony on a bike or bliss. How you cycle is the same. If your knee joint is out of line with your ankle you can create problems. These inner soles alter how your foot sits in the shoe, and changes that angle relationship. Get some advice from a qualified fitter.
Last question that is often asked is how you care for your road cycle shoe should it get dirty. Advice ranges from dipping in mild detergent (though do be careful doing this as some detergents rot the stitching: refer to manufacturers instructions) to something which I think is perfect advice.
Wait for a really wet stormy day. Put your shoes on. Go for a ride. This is exactly what happened to me the other day…and it works a treat. A bit soggy though and I came back wearing a wet suit rather than my Gore cycle clothing. I saw another guy that day with overshoes: a perfect investment for the winter me thinks.
Pedals start at around £30, shoes £40.
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